Beware of Escolar, the Ex-Lax Fish

January 9, 2010

Chilean Sea Bass: not from Chile, and not actually Bass. Discuss.

Chilean Sea Bass, aka Patagonian Toothfish

As “flexitarians,” Lee and I eat mostly vegetarian, but do like to have sustainably harvested fish a couple of times a week. Part of our motivation is the protein and Omega-3 fatty acids found in fish are good for our health. Personally, with the current pace of overfishing I don’t want to wake up one day and realize that all the fish are gone from our oceans, and I didn’t experience them while they were still here on Earth.

As the demand for fish — especially top-of-the-food-chain predator fish like tuna and swordfish — causes commercial fishing boats to send their lines deeper and deeper, they are catching more and more of what they call “bycatch” fish. Catching these fish has a cost in time and resources, so fisherman are highly motivated to create new markets for these previously unknown fish.

The fish marketed as Chilean Sea Bass is actually Patagonian Toothfish that is pulled up from the deep waters by tuna lines, and the campaign to sell this previously worthless bycatch fish was so successful that Patagonian Toothfish is now overfished itself.

Now Introducing: Escolar

Escolar, The Ex-Lax Fish

According to Bonnie Sui, Escolar is the latest repackaged bycatch species being pushed by fishmongers and upscale restaurants. Escolar, also known as ”white tuna,” “butterfish,” “rudderfish,” and “Hawaiian walu,” is apparently known for being “rich and silky, with a uniform white smoothness that was almost unreal.”

Unfortunately, eating Escolar may cause a (finger quotes in air) “purgative effect” in some people. Says Bonnie:

“The buttery fish is actually a kind of snake mackerel, a deep-sea bottom-feeder full of a wax ester that accounts for its dreamy velvety texture. Unfortunately, that oil is not digestible by humans and causes severe gastrointestinal distress in some people. It has earned escolar the nickname ‘Ex-Lax fish.’ “

Think the same effect as eating too many Fat-Free Pringles. (Anyone remember the launch of Olestra?) One more reason to always carry your handy Monterey Bay Aquarium Seafood Watch Pocket Guide.

Posted in Eat